We actually had amazing luck in that we documented four birds that
are listed as rare in Thailand; in order of sighting they were:
the Long-billed Plover (Charadrius placidus) on a sandbar;
the Paddyfield Warbler (Acrocephalus agricola) in riverine
grass; Jerdon’s Bushchat (Saxicola jerdoni) in riverine grass;
and the Black-faced Bunting (Emberiza spodocephala) in long
grass in a paddyfield. In all four cases, we spotted only solitary
birds.
Our base at the Maekok River Village Resort couldn’t have been a better
location from which to start a days birdwatching - when one is looking
for both river and paddyfield species.
The lodge is situated on the Mae Kok River and a motorized barge
was put at our service, which made spotting both convenient and
comfortable.
Our first morning we had tried the river from the bank (without
the barge), and as was to be expected, the moment our heads showed
the birds disappeared.
When we used the barge, however, we could get to within a few metres
of the sandbars on which most of the birds were either resting or
feeding. In this way, we got an excellent view of the Long-billed
Plover.The birds seemed unable to discern the smaller humans in
the bigger barge, or maybe it was that they were used to the constant
passage of boats.
When we came across a likely looking paddyfield area, we had the
boatman put us ashore and we would quarter the area, 60 or so metres
apart, effectively covering the area between us and on either side.
Using this method, we put up quail, snipe, pipits, larks and other
paddyfield birds. It is also well worthwhile taking an evening trip
on the barge, just before dusk, as the river birds tend to gather
on the sandbars to roost. We found the best spot to be at the confluence
of the Mae Kok and the Mae Fang rivers, about three kilometres from
the Maekok River Village Resort.
The Jerdon’s Bushchat and the Paddyfield Warbler were seen in the
same area, about 200 metres up the Mae Fang (left bank) from where
it joins the Mae Kok There was some doubt about whether we would
be able to navigate this part of the river due to the shallowness
of the water, but it turned out to be no problem at all. In this
area, the banks of the river are lined with some fairly thick riverine
grass and the thorny mimosa.
One thing that did worry me was the slashing and burning of the
mimosa up to a few metres from the bank. A careful eye should be
kept on the riverside vegetation or we may end up losing these two
species.
The Mae Kok is a busy river and quite a lot of dredging is going
on, not so much to deepen the river as to collect sand and gravel
for sale to the construction industry. An eye should also be kept
on this as it is affecting the river banks.
Having said that, the birds seem to be coping admirably and have
got used to the traffic which then allows the birdwatcher to get
closer to the birds.
Raptors were not that much in evidence but when they were we were
overwhelmed by them. One particular morning we saw eleven Eastern
Marsh Harriers (Circus spilonotus) within a 300-metre radius
of where we were standing; and, at the same time we watched two
Black-shouldered Kites (Elanus caeruleus) hovering over the
rice stubble and long grass.
The only other raptor we saw was the Shikra (Accipiter badius).
The Eastern Marsh Harriers, like us, would quarter the fields with
their slow-flapping but acrobatic flight and the occasional hovering.
They were relatively tame and would come to within a 100 metres
of us. With careful manoeuvering with a straw stack between myself
and a sitting harrier, I got to about 20 metres from one bird. Incidentally,
all the Harriers we saw were female.
We also explored some of the higher ground but nothing exciting
turned up in submontane birds. The highest we got was 900 metres
above sea level, where there had also been quite a bit of deforestation.
What was of interest was the low-profile military presence. From
one particular viewpoint one could see both the Thai and Burmese
observation points on the tops of the higher mountains, both with
flags flying. But any birdwatcher coming to this area would come
for the rare birds on or by the river.
(For the northern montane and forest birds, one would need go to
Doi Phahompok, an area I intend to explore in the near future.)
The importance of this area is due to the fact that it is the southernmost
range of the birds of northern Asia, where they spill
over into Thailand.
CONCLUSIONS
Ban Thaton is an ideal area for river and paddyfield birdwatching,
all the more so because of the rare species that can be found in
the area.
However, a certain amount of homework must be done, such as finding
where the wet paddyfields are.
There are two stages of wet paddyfields, the first when the fields
have been flooded and left for a while; and the second after the
rice has been planted. We didn’t find too many of the first and
only a few of the second. I have to admit that we were very lucky
with the rarer species and a quick look down the checklist will
show you that we were, in fact, unlucky with the more common species
- but I would rather have it that way.
It would be commendable if local officials were to keep an eye
on the riverine areas, especially on the tall riverine grass and
the mimosa thorn trees, as this provides cover for some of the rarer
birds (and others not so rare). Generally speaking, there is still
enough vegetation around to make an interesting day birdwatching.
As I mentioned, birdwatching from a river barge is more convenient
as both river and paddyfields can be explored at the same time.
The Mae Kok River Village Resort can provide these at very reasonable prices.
Also, the staff at the lodge are very helpful, and most of them
speak English. The food served in the restaurant is excellent, worthy
of its reputation. They also have 4WD vehicles if one wants to explore
farther afield over rougher terrain. I have nothing but praise for
the services provided by Maekok River Village Resort and Track of the Tiger
Tours. Ban Thaton is a lovely 3-hour drive north from Chiang Mai.
The following list summarizes the birds seen during this visit
to Ban Thaton.